Fall in Florence means Porcini mushrooms, truffles, freshly pressed olive oil, and chestnuts – all ingredients for Italian delicatessen and perfect pairs for the intense Tuscan red wines such as Chianti, Morellino, Brunello and Montepulciano.
02 – 25.09.22 FABBRICA EUROPA. CONTEMPORARY DANCE FESTIVAL
The focus of the 29th edition is on cultures and languages, countries of origin and choice, tradition and research: the human and artistic mix that represents our present. Full program here.
22.09.22 – 22.01.23 OLAFUR ELIASSON. NEL TUO TEMPO. PALAZZO STROZZI
One of the most original and visionary artists of our time, Eliasson’s multifaceted practice places the visitor at the heart of his reflection on the notion of shared experience and interaction with reality. Palazzo Strozzi will host new installations and historical works, some interacting with Renaissance architecture.
23.09.22 – 29.01.23 TONY CRAGG. I’M A SCULPTURE FAN. MUSEO NOVECENTO
Tony Cragg is best known for having contributed to a renewal of the plastic language thanks to introducing new materials and techniques, among the most experimental and innovative of our time. Among works on paper and sculptures, three of his monumental masterpieces will be exhibited in the cloister of the museum.
26.04.22 – 27.11.22 SAMMY BALOJI. K(C)ONGO, FRAGMENTS OF INTERLACED DIALOGUES. SUBVERSIVE CLASSIFICATIONS
The Andito degli Angiolini of Palazzo Pitti hosts Baloji’s first solo show in Italy.
The artist’s works interact with archival material and important Congolese works on loan from the Museum of Anthropology and Ethnology in Florence, the Museum of Civilizations in Rome, and the Uffizi Galleries. Baloji’s research focuses on the relationship between the history and memory of the Democratic Republic of the Congo and global history.
24.09.22 – 02.10.22 BIENNALE INTERNAZIONALE DELL’ANTIQUARIATO DI FIRENZE. PALAZZO CORSINI
The Biennale is considered the most important Fair in the world for ancient Italian art, and every two years, it brings in Florence the crème de la crème of national and international antiques by inviting a select group of antique dealers capable of proposing a critical and very varied choice of works, guaranteed by an authoritative vetting.
16.09.22 – 31.03.21 HENRY MOORE IN FLORENCE. MUSEO NOVECENTO / PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA / SAN MINIATO AL MONTE
From 16 September 2022 to 31 March 2023 Family Group and Large Interior Form will be exhibited respectively in two symbolic places of the city: Piazza della Signoria and exceptionally on the churchyard of the Abbey of San Miniato al Monte, in an open dialogue with Florence’s heritage.
FOOD AND DRINK NOTES
LE VOLPI E L’UVA
Just a few minutes from the busy square and from Ponte Vecchio, “Le Volpi e l’Uva” is a hidden gem in a lovely and quiet little piazza. Their wine list is enormous, and their Crostoni are delicious. Ask them for the best pairings and for what’s new in this season; their knowledge about terroirs and grape varieties is distinctive and refined.
LA VECCHIA BETTOLA
If you like the Oltrarno (beyond Arno) quarter and want to experience rustic and authentic food, “La Vecchia Bettola” is your place. However, you don’t have to be touchy; the restaurant can be bustling and noisy, and it is usual to share your table with strangers in a “family setting” style.
Expect to find a long waiting line of locals outside (reservation is a must). The ambience is so unique; marble tables, wooden stools and benches. The synchronicity of the staff and fellowship of the place makes it an authentic Italian experience: it’s just what you want a neighbourhood Italian restaurant to be. Try everything that’s cooked with mushrooms as well as the “penne alla bettola” and “taglierini al tartufo bianco” while in season.
Mercato Centrale is worth a visit; it was built between 1870 and 1874, while Firenze was still Italy’s capital. This stunning building made of iron and glass, mixing classic and modern styles, winks at Parisian architecture. A two floors foodies paradise, perfect for having a quick lunch made of things you have probably never seen or eaten before, including cow stomach, brains and tongue (but no worries, you’ll also find pizza or vegetable-based dishes) or to stock dried mushrooms (ask for a vacuum pack), herbs (buy Mediterranean native ones such as oregano and marjoram) sun-dried tomatoes and capers in sea salt.
It can sometimes be very crowdy and touristic too, but it is also the favourite of many florentines.
Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is defenetely our choice. It is smaller, a neighbourhood market set in one of the most interesting (but less known) areas of the centro storico, surrounded by lovely bars and bistros (Gilda and Cibreo for true vintage lovers and Semel, the smallest panini shop in town). This market is a great place to buy a snack, and some stands sell fantastic cheeses from the Mugello area, wild boar sausages and novello (new) wine.
If you are lucky enough to visit on a sunny day just put together what seems most tasty and take it to the Pescaia di San Niccolò, one of the few grassy little beaches on the river banks of the Arno for a picnic.